I can't speak for the others, but not with the TriMon. The image that you get through the DVI output is simply interlaced, meaning that each eye gets only every second line. So the vertical resolution for each image in 3D mode is half the vertical resolution in 2D mode.
Or put differently, your graphics card only has to output one full image for both eyes.
Which are pretty much superseeded by red/cyan glasses.
Iz3d supports red/cyan (full color, optimized color and black & white) or yellow/blue (color only). Green/magenta is not supported. Red/green or red/blue glasses are compatible to red/cyan in black & white mode.
Not a big loss, though, as color images don't work that well with colored glasses to begin with.
Which are pretty much superseeded by red/cyan glasses.
Iz3d supports red/cyan (full color, optimized color and black & white) or yellow/blue (color only). Green/magenta is not supported. Red/green or red/blue glasses are compatible to red/cyan in black & white mode.
Not a big loss, though, as color images don't work that well with colored glasses to begin with.
Red/cyan glasses are more popular today because they allow a certain amount of colour.
It's basically like this: The glasses are narrow gates for a certain part of the light spectrum.
Red and green are very narrow gates. They don't let a whole lot through, but on the other hand there's also very little chance that something that was actually meant for the other eye will slip through. So there's virtually no ghosting with red/green.
Red/cyan on the other hand means that you have one channel (red) that's still very clear, but still can't contain different colour shades and one (cyan) that's not nearly as clear, but which lets a wider range through, meaning that it can show a certain amount of different colours. You still don't get full colours, but at least a hint. But because the cyan side allows a wider range, you get some ghosting there.
Another problem with this is that for this colouring to work, the images for both eyes will sometimes have different brightness for the same object. A red object will turn out with full brightness on one eye, but black on the other, producing an odd flickering effect in your vision.
Personally, I'd say that the red/green glasses with a greyscale image are better choice than red/cyan with a colour image, if you want to use them for extended periods of time. Red/cyan looks more impressive for a few seconds, but what good is that if you get a headache after 2 minutes?
I could, but shipping from America is about $150US+, so it doesn't work out much cheaper. I looked into iz3D monitors (also painfully expensive and almost impossible to find here), but from the reviews I was reading it doesn't sound all that flash - extremely poor results on colour tests, the only adjustable option is the brightness, and noticeable ghosting in some games. The tech really interests me and I'd love to try it out, but I'm not sure I can justify the cost when there are still so many drawbacks.
FYI: Color is fixed with the new version of glasses they've been working on (I have a "beta" pair). I'm not sure what you mean by "the only adjustable option is the brightness"; are you talking about monitor settings or how it handles 3D stuff or something else? If your area has a high price tag on it, like $600USD up, I'd suggest trying to see a demo unit if at all possible, or checking on prices on other solutions, though currently, this is one of the cheapest stereo 3D solutions I can think of, unless you count using iz3d's free anaglyph driver and getting some red/blue glasses.
I'm talking about monitor settings. With the colour, it may have been improved but the actual colour range tests (without glasses) are very poor (all of this is regarding the IZ3D monitor). I am going to try and demo one though, just to take a look.
can somebody help me configure iZ3D for anaglyph? i dont know what increasing and decreasing convergence does, same with separation. autofocus doesnt seem to do anything.
the only time i'm not seeing ghosts of with either the red or green side is when the two images are prefectly overlapping, and i feel that defeats the point of it.
is there a way to set the driver for red/green glasses? maybe that's the problem
Just got back from a short vacation to France, taking my new Kodak Zx1 through it's first test run (and being damn happy it survived at all, with a lot of water and wine being poured over it and daily visits to the beach).
It's not ToMI related at all, but what the heck: maybe it's the final piece some of you need to justify buying a 3D display and truly be able to enjoy ToMI
I simply held the camera out of the car's side window. And if you're moving fast enough and moving in a right angle to the direction you are looking, you can simply grab two frames and use them for the left/right eye input you need for the 3D effect.
Here's a random picture. There are much better ones, but I just arrived and this is the first one I've tried:
EDIT: Here's a better one. Right click/View Image, then use your browser's zoom control (Ctrl MouseWheel or +/-)
Only the last picture or all of them? The last picture is too big for most people to view comfortably, that's why I said to use the browser's zoom feature.
For the other ones: Make sure you're not too close to the monitor, then hold one finger up half way between the screen and your nose. Move it back and forth until you see (while still focusing on your finger) the two pictures turning into one steady and two flickering ones in the background, then move your finger out of your field of vision while still focusing on the point where it was. It takes some practice, but you can do it!
can somebody help me configure iZ3D for anaglyph? i dont know what increasing and decreasing convergence does, same with separation. autofocus doesnt seem to do anything.
the only time i'm not seeing ghosts of with either the red or green side is when the two images are prefectly overlapping, and i feel that defeats the point of it.
is there a way to set the driver for red/green glasses? maybe that's the problem
Separation is what you'd usually call "depth". Set it too high and your eyes will have a hard time switching focus from an object that's close to the screen to one that's far away, set it too low and you won't really see the 3D effect. (+/-)
Convergence most noticeably moves the closest objects back inside the screen. Decrease it if things appear to float in front of it. (Shift +/-)
Wow, that's a really clever way to take 3d photos. It's not as precise or perfect as "proper" methods, but really inventive and surprisingly effective.
Also, I am a 3d ninja. I could view the bottom one without zooming out.
oooo just had to do this fancy 3d thing with one of my illustrations. The result is not the best (could use a bit more layers) but seeing 2d world poping up in 3d is priceless
but maybe you're lucky I had to use an older version of the NVidia drivers since the 7900GS is no longer supported by 19x version drivers. Maybe they fixed it in that version.
oooo just had to do this fancy 3d thing with one of my illustrations. The result is not the best (could use a bit more layers) but seeing 2d world poping up in 3d is priceless
Uh... the image is gone apparently. Anyway: it was great! If you have a cleanly layered image, adding 3D isn't all that difficult and loads of fun.
One thing: Your image is left-eye-first, so crosseyed viewing doesn't work, and you have to zoom out a lot until you can view it in parallel.
And finally, I think I actually forgot to post my little edit of Steve's artwork in here. I posted it at the PAX thread, at the artwork thread, but for some reason not here:
Couldn't resist and tried to create a 3D version of the cover:
Not the best 3D edit you can find, but still (considering it was done with only a generic warp filter). You can find infos on how to view it in the ToMI 3D thread
Some people simply can't do it. Maybe a friend can lend you their 3D glasses? Do you have Red/Cyan or Red/Green glasses at hand? I could make a version for that.
Comments
One question: Do I need 2 DVI outputs from my PC to make this work?
Or put differently, your graphics card only has to output one full image for both eyes.
OCKi - For the IZ3D monitors and many other solutions, yes. Not for the Zalman one.
Iz3d supports red/cyan (full color, optimized color and black & white) or yellow/blue (color only). Green/magenta is not supported. Red/green or red/blue glasses are compatible to red/cyan in black & white mode.
Not a big loss, though, as color images don't work that well with colored glasses to begin with.
i'm so lost
It's basically like this: The glasses are narrow gates for a certain part of the light spectrum.
Red and green are very narrow gates. They don't let a whole lot through, but on the other hand there's also very little chance that something that was actually meant for the other eye will slip through. So there's virtually no ghosting with red/green.
Red/cyan on the other hand means that you have one channel (red) that's still very clear, but still can't contain different colour shades and one (cyan) that's not nearly as clear, but which lets a wider range through, meaning that it can show a certain amount of different colours. You still don't get full colours, but at least a hint. But because the cyan side allows a wider range, you get some ghosting there.
Another problem with this is that for this colouring to work, the images for both eyes will sometimes have different brightness for the same object. A red object will turn out with full brightness on one eye, but black on the other, producing an odd flickering effect in your vision.
Personally, I'd say that the red/green glasses with a greyscale image are better choice than red/cyan with a colour image, if you want to use them for extended periods of time. Red/cyan looks more impressive for a few seconds, but what good is that if you get a headache after 2 minutes?
FYI: Color is fixed with the new version of glasses they've been working on (I have a "beta" pair). I'm not sure what you mean by "the only adjustable option is the brightness"; are you talking about monitor settings or how it handles 3D stuff or something else? If your area has a high price tag on it, like $600USD up, I'd suggest trying to see a demo unit if at all possible, or checking on prices on other solutions, though currently, this is one of the cheapest stereo 3D solutions I can think of, unless you count using iz3d's free anaglyph driver and getting some red/blue glasses.
No; at minimum, you will need one DVI and one VGA output from the same video card. 2 DVI out would be best.
the only time i'm not seeing ghosts of with either the red or green side is when the two images are prefectly overlapping, and i feel that defeats the point of it.
is there a way to set the driver for red/green glasses? maybe that's the problem
It's not ToMI related at all, but what the heck: maybe it's the final piece some of you need to justify buying a 3D display and truly be able to enjoy ToMI
I simply held the camera out of the car's side window. And if you're moving fast enough and moving in a right angle to the direction you are looking, you can simply grab two frames and use them for the left/right eye input you need for the 3D effect.
Here's a random picture. There are much better ones, but I just arrived and this is the first one I've tried:
EDIT: Here's a better one. Right click/View Image, then use your browser's zoom control (Ctrl MouseWheel or +/-)
For the other ones: Make sure you're not too close to the monitor, then hold one finger up half way between the screen and your nose. Move it back and forth until you see (while still focusing on your finger) the two pictures turning into one steady and two flickering ones in the background, then move your finger out of your field of vision while still focusing on the point where it was. It takes some practice, but you can do it!
Separation is what you'd usually call "depth". Set it too high and your eyes will have a hard time switching focus from an object that's close to the screen to one that's far away, set it too low and you won't really see the 3D effect. (+/-)
Convergence most noticeably moves the closest objects back inside the screen. Decrease it if things appear to float in front of it. (Shift +/-)
Also, I am a 3d ninja. I could view the bottom one without zooming out.
I could never do magic eye either though...
░▀█ ▀ ▀ █▀░
░░░█###█░░░
░░░░▀▀▀░░░░
Then my work here is done.
I enlarged the images, which of course brought the pixels out. But when doing the cross-eye-thing the pixelation was gone
Just reminding you that the NVision drivers didn't work on ToMI for me, I had to use the iz3D drivers. They're not free, but there's a trial.
oh darn
but maybe you're lucky
Uh... the image is gone apparently. Anyway: it was great! If you have a cleanly layered image, adding 3D isn't all that difficult and loads of fun.
One thing: Your image is left-eye-first, so crosseyed viewing doesn't work, and you have to zoom out a lot until you can view it in parallel.
And finally, I think I actually forgot to post my little edit of Steve's artwork in here. I posted it at the PAX thread, at the artwork thread, but for some reason not here: